Unofficial Intimidator FAQ

by Richard D. Slaughter

Version 2.9.5

Last Updated: January 24th, 2002

Introduction

Disclaimer

 I take no responsibility for the accuracy of the information contained in this document.  I am dedicated to keeping everything as correct as possible, but if something in this document causes your gun to blow up and takes off an arm or something, don't sue me. 'kay? Also, the authors and contributors to this FAQ have no affiliation to Delta Paintball or Bob Long.

Contributors

Thanks to everyone for their contributions!

Distribution

As far as distribution of this faq goes, I don't really care.  I'm doing this to help keep a stable base of information on the Intimidator, not for any personal glory or anything.  Just please leave it in it's original form.  If there are any mistakes made, follow the procedure in the 'corrections' segment listed next.

Feedback

There will be many blank spots here for quite some time, and information will be constantly changing.  I may not have easy access to some of this necessary information, so if you see anything I've listed wrong, or that I'm missing, or you simply have a suggestion for a new segment or change of layout, send me e-mail at defiance and put 'intimidator' in the subject.  I get a lot of mail, but where I work, I filter through it all pretty quickly, so it shouldn't take me long to respond and, if necessary, make the proposed changes.

Other Resources

Information about the intimidator can be found in several locations.
This FAQ: http://www.cei.net/~defiance/intimidator_faq.html
Delta Paintball, creators of the Intimidator: http://cnc-machining.com/bob-long/index.html
Paintsplat.com, pictures of the Intimidator: http://www.paintsplat.com/boblong.htm
Bob Longs Intimidator Message Board, post info & questions about the Intimidator: http://pub3.ezboard.com/fdefiantboardintimidator

Revision History

I didn't have this going at first, and there's no possible way I could remember each revision, so I'm just going to start with version 2.9.1
Coming soon - (v. 3.0) Just nitpicking, now.
Version 2.9.5 - Updated a little bit to bring things up to date, looking to do a major revision soon
Version 2.9.4 - Took the pics back out, added a few new infos in troubleshooting, parts, and upgrades.
Version 2.9.3 - Got the o-ring listings done, added a few tool listings, and got the pics in troubleshooting..*note*- pics don't currently work; the first batch were pretty bad. Will have new ones online soon.
Version 2.9.2 - Had to replace some lost stuff, I'm not sure I caught it all. New info on gun-specific upgrades. Barrel info. new troubleshooting info.
Version 2.9.1 - Added revision history, made a few grammatical/spelling corrections

The Intimidator

The Intimidator is a marker available from Bob Long/Delta Paintball.  It's feature list is undisputedly the most extensive available in any unmodified 'gun on the market today, and it's price range is well below that of any other markers giving it competition. Additionally, it's one of the few markers available with a truly revolutionary look.  Whether you love it or hate it, no one can deny this one is truly very different from anything else out there.

Availability

Locations and Distributors

Seems the intimidator has hit full distribution, and lots of stores are gettin' them in. Keep your eyes open, you'll see it.

Pricing

As pricing fluctuates severely, I'll no longer be keeping track. Suffice to say, pricing has dropped signifigantly.

Colors & Options

The Intimidators standard available colors are
 
Red to Yellow fade  (The colors are actually a copper color to a gold color)
Black to Gray fade
Blue to Purple fade
Dark Blue to Light Blue fade
Green to Yellow fade

  Additionally, Delta is willing to do custom anodizing jobs for an extra fee. There is also an 'SE' Intimidator available with different anodizing patterns and a full assortment of barrels.
Next, the Ripper Intimidator (also known as the LE) is available from Eaton Machining with extreme milling.
Delta is currently working on a 'Dragon' intimidator with yet another extreme milling pattern.

Features

General Overview

The marker is a solenoid controlled open-bolt design, very similar to the popular open-bolt blowback design found in Spyders.  The primary difference is that instead of a blowback recocking on a spring-loaded striker, the bolt is locked into a ram in a dual-pressurized chamber. Thus, the back of the chamber is pressurized to move the bolt forward, and the front is pressurized to move the bolt backward.  This allows for a *very* low cycling pressure, as well as much less cocking recoil.  The pressure on either side of this slider is controlled by an electronic 2-way valve that uses the same size hose as a 'cocker 3-way.  The marker includes dual regulators, one for the cycling mechanism and one for the firing mechanism.  Both regs are mounted one atop the other, with adjustments facing forward, both are 3 dimensionally milled, and both use a standard allen key for adjustment.  All functions are electronically controlled.  Settings are changed through a 2-button, approx. 1"x4"(quick, top of the head estimate) backlit LCD display.  Rates of fire are variable from 8.1 to 14 bps, firing modes are semi auto, full auto, 3 shot burst, 6 shot burst, turbo (1.5 shot burst, basically), and reactive (2 shot burst, basically).  The 'SOB' (semi only board) is also available, and though it only includes semi auto mode, the ROF restrictions are much higher. Also included is an infrared anti chop eye', a set of sensors mounted in the bottom of the breach to restrict firing until the ball has completely loaded in the breach.  This allows you to set the rate of fire as high as possible, whatever your feed rate may be.  Considering the variable nature of today's loaders (most revs vary from 10 to 15 or 16 bps), this allows for an extremely high rates of burst fire, and keeps you from setting your firing rate 'too fast' for your loader.  The trigger is fully adjustable, with adjustments for spring tension, pull restriction, and firing pull.  The gun will perform on CO2 or HPA/Nitro, but seals and o-rings will (as usual) have a much longer life on HPA.  It has two small predrilled, threaded holes in the top for use with an optional sight rail.   The bottom of the regulators is a standard ASA-threaded hole, for an expansion chamber or a gas-thru grip.  The marker also includes a 'built in drop forward', which, although most don't like the look of it, and though it doesn't replace a good drop forward, it does help to balance the marker.   It comes out of the box weighing 2 pounds, 10 ounces, and measuring 22.5 inches long, 10.5 inches tall, with a 14" two piece barrel. The warranty on the gun is stated in the paperwork 90 days, but Bob has said that's only for wiring.   My experience has shown that generally speaking, Delta will fix whatever problems arise, as long as the terms of the warrantee are valid (meaning, don't take a table saw to your 'gun or anything) for longer than I've owned any of their markers (which I've owned *several* of).

Low Pressure Regulator

The low pressure regulator is the lower mounted of the two regs.  Adjustment is very easy, with a standard hex key.  General operating pressure for the lpr is between 50 and 100 psi.  Generally speaking, the lower the better, as when the pressure gets too high, the chances of internal hoses popping off increases, the recoil gets stronger, and bolt/ball impact increases.  Also, when the pressure is too high, there is a noticeable 'ping' sound.  Still, if the pressure is too low, the bolt speed will restrict firing speed.  Still, there is a very wide range of acceptable pressures.  A gauge is not included, nor is it 100% necessary, but it is highly recommended.  Any standard gauge will fit. Check 'general upgrades' for more info.

High Pressure Regulator

The high pressure regulator is the higher mounted of the two regs.  Adjustment is identical, with the exception that output pressure ranges are significantly higher.  Expect the range to be somewhere around 200-300 psi.  The primary use for the high pressure regulator is to control ball speed.  The reg is pretty consistent, the only consideration necessary is that three to four shots should be fired after each adjustment, to allow the reg to 'flatten out' at the new pressure before testing speed.  As before, a gauge is not included, or necessary, but recommended. For more info, check the 'general upgrades' section.

LCD/LED

When the gun is on, the LED will light with certain codes representing the status of the 'gun. The codes are as follows:
Solid Orange: The 'gun is in the process of bootup
Flashing Green: Standard operation
Solid Green: Trigger fires or Menu mode
Flashing Red: Normal operation, but low battery
Solid Red: Not Ready (occasionally during menu operations)

The LCD is a two button, backlit, menu driven system.  To bring up controls for the gun, hold down both buttons for about 1 second.  Release the buttons, the LCD backlighting comes on, and the menu will then display.  The left button scrolls through the options, and the right selects your choice.  A detailed menu tree follows.

Menu Tree (Revision 1.4.1, changes for future revisions will be noted)


Coming soon: Semi Oly board DIP settings.

Anti Chop Eye

The Anti-Chop Eye is a pair of photosensors in the bottom of the breach which senses when a ball drops all the way down.  Works excellent; The settings in the menu control exaclty how long (after it senses a ball) the gun waits to fire.  There has to be some delay, as sometimes the ball will block the sensor before it's *all* the way down, but so far, I've encountered noone that had problems with the lowest (1ms) setting.  Delta's recommendation, though, is 2ms.  We've tested the eye now at full auto, 14bps, with a 12v rev, and the same settings on a standard VL 200.  Both tests proved EXTREMELY impressive.  With the rev, it was always over 10bps, and it would have bursts at 14bps.  Cleared the entire hopper in no time with no missed feeds and no chops.  Upon repeated tests the results were identical.  With the VL, you could really see the eye doing it's work, as the gun would stop firing every once in a while when the hopper would lodge up.  Then, it would do a burst at 14, and when feeding would slow, so would the 'gun.  Excellent response.  Works exactly as advertised... (as long as you don't have the recalled part... See maintainence #4)

Battery Information

The intimidator uses a standard 9v battery.  Battery life is yet undetermined.  We've shot approx. 20,000 shots so far with it, no problem.  Battery life can be expected to be more than that. :)  Changing the battery is very simple, as well. There are 4 allen screws holding the non-lcd side grip on, with no wires to be dealt with.  The battery sits in the bottom (drop-forward) of the grip frame.  It sits in snugly, so no rattling.  Very easy replacement.

DIP Switch Settings

The DIP Swtiches determine startup firing mode, rate of fire, eye status, and tourney lock. They changed in revisions 1.4.2 and 1.4.3, so these are listed seperately. Note that SOB settings are listed as well.

Firing mode, all mode equipped versions, Switches (1-3)
off,off,off - Semi Auto
off,off,on - 3-Burst
off,on,off - 6-Burst
off,on,on - Full Auto
on,off,off - Test
on,off,on - Turbo
on,on,off - Reactive
on, on,on - Unused (semi)

Rate of Fire, all mode equipped versions, Switches (4,5)
off,off - 9 shots/sec
off,on - 10.1 shots/sec
on,off - 12 shots/sec
on,on - 14 shots/sec

Delay (ROF Limiter), SOB, Switches (1-5)
off,off,off,off,off - 15
on,off,off,off,off - 16
off,on,off,off,off - 17
on,on,off,off,off - 18
off,off,on,off,off - 19
on,off,on,off,off - 20
off,on,on,off,off - 21
on,on,on,off,off - 22
off,off,off,on,off - 23
on,off,off,on,off - 24
off,on,off,on,off - 25
on,on,off,on,off - 26
off,off,on,on,off - 27
on,off,on,on,off - 28
off,on,on,on,off - 29
on,on,on,on,off - 30
off,off,off,off,on - 31
on,off,off,off,on - 32
off,on,off,off,on - 33
on,on,off,off,on - 34
off,off,on,off,on - 35
on,off,on,off,on - 36
off,on,on,off,on - 37
on,on,on,off,on -3 8
off,off,off,on,on - 39
on,off,off,on,on - 40
off,on,off,on,on - 41
on,on,off,on,on - 42
off,off,on,on,on - 43
on,off,on,on,on - 44
off,on,on,on,on - 45
on,on,on,on,on - 46

Forward Dwell, version 1.4.1, Switches (6,7)
off,off - 19 ms
off,on - 16 ms
on,off - 08 ms
on,on - 06 ms

Forward Dwell, versions 1.4.2/3 & SOB, Switches (6-8)
off,off,off - 20 ms
off,off,on - 18 ms
off,on,off - 16 ms
off,on,on - 14 ms
on,off,off - 12 ms
on,off,on - 10 ms
on,on,off - 8 ms
on,on,on - 6 ms

Ball in Place Delay, version 1.4.1, Switches (8,9)
off,off - 15 ms
off,on - 10 ms
on,off - 5 ms
on,on - bypass a/c eye

Ball in Place Delay, versions 1.4.2/3, Switch (9)
off - 1 ms
on - bypassa/c eye

Tourney Lock, all versions, Switch (10)
off - tourney lock disengaged
on - tourney lock engaged

Gas Information

CO2

If you decide to run the intimidator on CO2, I would strongly recommend taking as many of these recommendations listed as possible to prevent liquid from entering the marker.  Either get an expansion chamber (a good high flow one) or a CO2 specific regulator (preferable method).  Try to get a bottom line/drop forward with a tilt to keep the bottom of the bottle as low as possible, OR run remote with the bottle mounted vertically. If you run your tank on-gun, an anti-siphon system would be a nice addition.  I shot about 1200 shots or so with CO2, the only precaution I took was an expansionchamber, so that does work...  BUT I ended up killing an o-ring, so be prepared if you take this route.  Check the maintenance section for further information along these lines.  As far as performance goes, it seemed to perform flawlessly.  The regs seemed to work great with CO2, keeping the pressure very consistent.  The only problem I had was that under rapid fire, I started experiencing shootdown after the 7th or 8th shot.  And that could've been attributed to the expansion chamber I was using...  It was a cheap-o.  Efficiency seems to end up at a little more than 1200 shots from a 12oz co2.

Preset HPA/Nitrogen

This marker runs best at around 500psi going into the reg, (Per Delta's recommendation) so if you're running preset, it's best to have a secondary regulator. We've actually run 850psi into ours, with no trouble, but we didn't run it like that long, and I've heard reports of o-ring problems running at that pressure. Efficiencly seems to stay around the same; 68/4.5k = 1200 or so shots. Obviously, this setup will work fine, but flow won't be as high as an adjustable tank, because of the number of regulators you're having to run through. I must wonder, though, if there's a way to bypass the on-gun high pressure reg and run your secondary reg straight into the chamber, in the interest of removing reg redundancy and increasing flow... Something to think about, in any case. If I ever get the gumption to try, I'll post further.

Adjustable HPA/Nitrogen

Running adjustable now seems to be the best way to run this marker. Originally, preset seemed to show no disadvantage, but it appears now that Delta's recommendation and o-ring problems at higher pressures (850) imply the necessity of a secondary reg when running preset. Obviously, adjustable would allow for much better flow because of the reduced number of regulators, and the cost would be similar (considering the cost of a high flow preset + secondary reg vs. high flow adjustable), so, this is the best possible setup on a stock 'timi. For LP timi information, check the LP mod info under upgrades.

Maintenance, Upgrades, and Troubleshooting

Maintenance

Generally speaking, maintenance on the gun is pretty light.  I'd recommend greasing the bolt ram each weekend. To do this, simply remove the bolt and spread a very light coat of good grease (Dow 55 is recommended, Dow 33 or White Lithium grease will work) on each of the bolt o-rings. Then, remove the ram cap, let the ram slide out the back, and repeat on the ram o-rings. The most important lubrication point on the gun, though, is valve assembly. The valve pin needs to be greased religiously once per month. To do this, remove the reg assembly, pull the valve pin, and get the valve pin o-ring nice and greasy. Finally, every month or so, the regs will need to be lubed. The entire assembly of each reg will unscrew from the reg frame. There is a washer, a spring, and a piston inside the assembly. Make sure the cylinder, spring, and washer are clean, and clean/grease the piston. When you reassemble it, make sure the notch in the assembly piston lines up with the pin in the frame without bending it. Repeat on the other reg. They're almost identical, internally, just with different spring tension and such.

Gun Specific Upgrades

Delta has released upgraded eye covers, bolts, grips (clear & black grooved), a 'volumizer' for use with the LP mod (see mods section), a Semi Only replacement board with higher ROF capacity, and a 'blade' style trigger. Mountain Paintball's Delrin bolt is the one I personally use and prefer, and they still market the 'Mini-Intimidator', though I know very little about it. Keep your eyes open :) Also, Spyder bolts are compatible. I've tested an AKA Lightning bolt. It showed a marginal pressure decrease, and a similar noise decrease. Not enough to justify the cost (IMO), but if you happen to have one sitting around... :) Finally, Spyder ball detents are also compatible. I have yet to test whether one or two makes much difference, but it ships with one, and has the option for two... You decide.

Modifications

The most popular mod is the 'LP' mod, which is basically bypassing the on-gun HP regulator, either putting a Volumizer in it's place or sealing up the internals on the stock reg, and putting a good inline (or extremely consistent nitro reg) on the marker. Reports show a marginal increase in efficiency, signifigant decrease in sound volume, and a slight decrease in 'kick'. For more details on this mod, see http://www.pettypb.com/timilp.html for detailed instructions. Petty paintball is leading the pack as far as detailed listings of modifications for the Intimidator. Thanks, guys! :) Finally, black magic has released an upgraded cupseal that guarantees to seal any valve leaks :)

General Upgrades

Any ASA regulator, expansion chamber, or gas-thru grip will work with the gun.  Drop forwards and cradles use standard cocker bolt/screw configuration.  Also, although the included barrel is a J and J two-piece, barrels are always going to be a common upgrade.  The gun uses 'cocker barrel threads. And of course, guages are almost a necessity. I like the looks of the 32 degrees micro guages, but with their pressure range, they won't be exceptionally accurate. A better solution for those of you really wanting accuracy are the ashcroft guages (300psi). Generally speaking, that's pretty much it as of yet.  Addtnl note: Instead of using teflon tape on guages, I recommend the use of blue loctite. It looks cleaner, seals just as well, and doesn't take the chance of 'stripping' and getting into regs or solenoids.

Troubleshooting

So far there are a couple of problems I've encountered that are very simple to repair, but are difficult to find without proper info.

1) When you gas the gun, you hear a loud *pop*, then the gun starts blowing gas with seemingly almost *no* restriction. *OR* the toned down version of this problem, there is a leak coming from the rear of the reg assembly or from the gripframe. (can sound like it's coming down the barrel)

This problem is caused by one of the cycle control hoses popping loose or stretching out and leaking.  Usually this won't happen if the LPR is set below 100psi, but if the hoses are worn, it can start happening anyway.  To remedy this, remove the trigger frame (2 screws, watch the wires.), and simply plug the hose back in.  If the problem persists, get some new hose.  It's the same hose used in cocker 3-ways, and it's pretty darned cheap.  If the hoses haven't come completely loose, but have stretched, they can leak. Easiest way to test this is to turn your LPR completely down. If the leak continues, it's the valve. If it stops or almost stops, it's the hoses.

2) The gun leaks from inside the gripframe, and the hoses are fine

This is usually caused by junk (teflon, shavings, dirt, etc.) in the solenoid. **NOTE** this one's a bit difficult, as you'll be working with small parts. If you don't feel comfortable, send the gun in.
Pull the board out by removing the one screw that holds the board in, also remove the ribbon cable, (marking which side went where.) You will now see the solenoid (small black box with hoses), there is one screw holding it in place, you will need to remove this screw. (the hardest part of this whole operation is getting this screw back in place.) Once you have this out, you will need to "shimmy" the solenoid out enought so you can see the top of it. (Not the side with all the wires coming out) The top will have 2 screws diagnal of each other. Make a mark with a pencil or marker, (small mark) to mark the side of the top, and side of the soleniod, so you will put it back on correctly. Now remove the 2 screws, there will be a gasquet and a o-ring. Set those aside., do not lose them. Next you will need a small pair of needle nose pliers, to pull the little round metal thing all the way out (this is a small 3 way, be very careful.) Once you have this out, you will probably see some very small strips of teflon tape, even just a spec of metal chard, or eye lash can make this leak. Once it's internally clean, reverse the process to reassemble/reinstall it.

3) The gun consistently leaks down the barrel.  When you push the bolt forward *slightly*, it decreases a bit.

This one is the valve pin o-ring.  With the grip frame removed, and the bolt pushed back, remove the single screw holding the regulator assembly in.  Slide the assembly forward and out, and drop the valve spring out.  Don't worry, it's pretty large and not under much pressure.  Use your finger to push the valve pin all the way int, then Slide the bolt forward quickly, this should pop the valve pin forward.  If it doesn't, push the pin back in, and pop it forward a bit quicker. It will pop out this way, and once you've done it a couple times, it'll become second nature. **NOTE** Those of you who've read this before when I said "If it doesn't come all the way out, use a tiny allen wrench (single wrench, one of the L-shaped ones) to hook and pull the pin the rest of the way out." **DON'T**. See the small white disc in the front of the valve? That's the primary valve seat. Any slight scratches in that will cause your gun to leak like crazy. I'm sure the part isn't very expensive, but it's not exactly easily available right now, so you're a lot better off not having to replace it. If you need to replace the o-ring, it's a (somewhat hard to find) size -004 o-ring.  You can usually find them at a machine shop or some auto parts stores.  If the o-ring is fine, simply oil (or use silicone lube? I'll update this later...) it and put it back in. If they dry out too much, they'll 'stick', causeing the same problem. Whe reinstalling the valve/reg assembly, make sure you put the smaller side of the spring against the top of the valve pin. As usual, de-gas the gun first :)

4) Same problem as (2), but the o-ring is fine, and well oiled, and the leak still hasn't stopped.

As said in #3, the valve seat is the small white plastic disc that sits in the front of the valve. If the leak won't stop, the valve isn't seating against it properly. 90% chance, the seat is scratched or otherwise marred. It's a little difficult to remove... Go ahead and remove the pin (as outlined in #2). Now, only continue if you *know* that it's bad, because removing it will more than likely scratch it. you'll have to have something small (such as a small allen wrench), to catch the inside edge of it, and pull it out. Simply use some Dow 33 or similar viscosity grease to assure a good seal between the seat and the valve itself, and set the new one in place. You'll probably have to order the seats directly from Delta. They're very inexpensive.

5) The gun shows pressure (on the gauges), but there is no cycling pressure (the bolt moves freely) and it won't fire.

This happens when one of the cycle control hoses gets crimped.  Remove the grip frame and rearrange the hoses so that they don't get bent too harshly or cramped between parts of the internals.  If you've replaced the hoses, you may have to trim them down.  There is very little room in there for slack.  Degas (duh! :) )

6) The gun's rate of fire won't seem to increase from approx. 1 shot per second.

This usually occurs when there is some sort of error in the eye.  Are you dry firing?  If so, it's waiting for a ball.  If not, there's a problem with the eye.  The first run of eyes has had problems like this; to check the eye, remove the covers from both sides and pull the sensors from their slots. One should be silver, the other should be black. If they're both silver, you have the old ones. Call Delta to get it replaced.  As a temporary fix, set the rate of fire down to 12 or 13.3, and set the eye to bypass.

7) The LCD display shows nothing, or seems to show gibberish

This problem is caused by the small white ribbon type cable not being pushed all the way into the latching port on the board. Take off the LCD-side grip, you'll see it. Just push it the rest of the way in.

8) The gun fires, but the first shot is extremely slow

This is caused by the same problem as #2, dirt or lack of oil on the valve pin o-ring. Same problem, same fix.

9) The gun cycles, but will not fire

There are two possible causes for this one. Either the HPR is set too low (which is easy enough to fix; turn up the pressure) or the dwell is set too low. Just turn up the dwell for this one. I've had problems at settings 1-4, but none above that. Word has it that Delta's recommendation is between 12-18.

10) The regulator (high or low) will not adjust up or down properly (pressure too high and won't come down, or too low and won't come up)

This one is caused when the pin inside the reg assembly is bent or dirty. Hopefully it's just dirty... Check maintainence segment for the method for dealing with this. If the pin is bent, you'll have to send it in to Delta for repair.

11) The bolt breaks in half at the small portion behind venturi ports.

This is a somewhat rare problem with the original bolts shipped with the gun. There is a revised bolt available. If this occurs, call Delta, they will get it replaced. *note*: if the problem hasn't occured, you can still get the revised bolt for $15.00 from Delta.

12) You have a leak down the barrel, but all of the above solutions have failed to stop it.

If you've got one of the earliest shipped Intimidators, some have problems with the valve sealing and locking at the same time... Basically, the hole that the locking screw fits into wasn't drilled deep enough, and the screw has to have too much pressure to lock... Thus initiating a leak. If you'd like to fix it yourself, you can drill it. Not sure on the drill bit size. Otherwise, call Delta, they'll get it replaced or drilled for you.

13) Unexplained ball breakage. Eye seems to work fine, but you still have breaks.

Some of the barrels shipped with the Intim. were 'partially' milled for breach sizers. Balls will break as they cross the gap. White Wolf milling (check Mountain Paintball's page for a link) will mill the barrels for the cost of shipping. (pretty cool of 'em :)) I'm sure Delta would take care of them, as well.

I'll add more as more are submitted. For any that aren't contained herein, call Delta. If they tell you a fix that isn't contained, let me know. Thanks!

Consumable Parts and Tools

In the interest of preparation, you should have all of the following in your tool kit.
Parts:
Bolt: 2 size -016 o-rings
Valve/ram assembly: 2 size -016 o-rings
Ram (front): 1 size -006 o-ring
Ram (rear): 1 size -012 o-ring
Ram cap: 1 size -012 o-ring
Valve seat: 1 valve seat, available from Delta (small white disc)
Valve pin: 1 size -004 o-rings
Reg assembly: 2 size -016 o-rings
Reg caps: 2 size -018 o-rings
Reg pistons: 2 size -113 o-rings
Solenoid: Standard 'Cocker 3-way style hose, total of around 1.5 ft (3 segments)
Detent: Standard Spyder nub-type detents, 1 included, slots for 2.

Tools:
Gripframe - 2 allen head screws, both size 1/8"
Reg Assembly - 1 allen head screw (underneath gripframe, for mounting), size 1/8"
Reg Adjustment - 2 allen head screws, size 3/16"
Grip/LCD panels - 5 allen head screws (per side), size 1/16"
A/C eye covers - 1 allen head screw (per side), size 5/64"
Valve/Ram assembly - 1 allen head screw (underneath gripframe), size (3/16"?)
Main board mount - 1 allen head screw, size 1/16"
Solenoid mount - 1 allen head screw, size 5/64"
Circuit board mount - 1 allen head screw, size 1/16"
Trigger adjustment screws - 3 allen head screws, size 5/64"
Trigger microswitch mount - 1 phillips head screw, size 0 or 1